Checking in—it’s my first day in Grenada. There are no words to match the love in my heart for Dominica. I recommend everyone writes the name on the top of their bucket list. Of course, I could have done more while on the island; but I could’ve done a hell of a lot less too. I touched down in the Caribbean with nothing but a dream I’ve cultivated my entire life, an artist’s budget, and a desire to experience local life.
I am convinced Airbnb is the way to travel (if you are NOT on a boat). Anu and Marica, my hosts, where beyond helpful both around the living quarters and putting me in contact with the people I needed to meet along the way. It wasn’t until my last three days on the island that I really got adventurous—breaking free from the familiar area around the house. Until then, any time I was out and about on the island, I was with Anu or one of his friends. It wasn’t until my birthday that I ventured across the island alone—free.
I set out from the house chasing waterfalls with a few pre-rolls, my birthday cards, and a little bit of cash in my pocket—thumbs up on the side of the rode. I could’ve waited for a bus or a taxi... but the locals hitchhike. Keep your head on a swivel and your eyes open for pick-up trucks. The rasta-men drive pickups and they will stop almost always. I walked maybe a third of my 9-mile journey to Jacko Falls—not bad for a rookie. (note… there is no such thing as ‘island time’ behind the wheel of a car).
I couldn’t believe it… the waterfall was “closed”. Jimmy Buffett wasn’t lying when he said something along the lines of, “the waterfall is closed, all the tourists have gone home.” There is a noticeable difference on the island for days the cruise ships make port at Roseau. If you have been anywhere, you know tourism has great benefits, but comes with the nagging difficulty of lines and too many people on your section of beach.
Jacko Falls being closed was a blessing; I was alone in the rainforest, experiencing my first waterfall. There is incredible magic in waterfalls. I sat on a stone seven feet from the falls and meditated. I absorbed the islands energy. Awe-struck I decided Jacko was the perfect place to open my cards. How could it get any better than this? I spent some time reminiscing over my family’s love and setting in stone my intentions for this year. I stripped my hiking gear down to my shorts and dove in. The water was cold—refreshing.
I was a new man leaving Jacko Falls. Confident in my ability to get from point A to B, I set out now for Spanny Falls. This waterfall never closes (which means of course there is a fee), but there is also a cold Kubuli to take down to the falls. Coming upon a waterfall like Spanny has to be experienced in person. The fall was twice the height of Jacko and the pools were more welcoming for people to swim. I spent my time at Spanny with a family who was there first.
I stopped at the desk/bar on my way out for a Kubuli to go and the man asked if I had seen both of the falls… two falls? Okay, make it two Kubuli, I’m headed back up the hill. The last fall was harder to get to. Follow the rope through the trees, up the rocks, down the rocks, to the secluded falls. There was no path, only the rope leading the way. But boy, it was worth every drop of sweat it took getting there. Each waterfall was more magnificent than the last.
It is a rule—you must swim at the base of a magnificent waterfall. Okay, rather… when you are sitting there, you are going to get in. There is no stopping it. An incredible birthday ended with chateau (octopus), caught and prepared in a local fashion—what a day!
My last full day in Dominica, I rented a driver… anywhere I want to go, on my clock (kind of). First, to Portsmouth (and the sea), my first time on the sea since coming down. I snorkeled along the northern coast, beside Secret Cove and went on a trip up the Indian River (the only river on the island with enough water to boat down). The river where Capt. Jack met Calypso in Dead Man’s Chest (“I’ve got a jar of dirt!”). My guide up river was excellent, pointing out different types of vegetation and wildlife we passed. Through our conversation, Sesh brought up West Indian sports, cricket in particular.
It turns out Sesh is the counrty’s best bowler (pitcher)… he talked about his technique although it was WAY over my head. He also informed me Esra, my driver (Anu’s friend), was the lead-off batter for the Dominica National Team. Following my boat tour, I met up with Esra and he took it upon himself to show me a good time on the town for my last night in Dominica. So, we went out, the way celebrities do.
One of my favorite experiences thus far along my journey is the people—musicians, artists, athletes, rastas. We are all one people, working hard for the people we love.
Guidance, Blessings
Capt. BZ